Guide to planning a Bandon Dunes Golf Trip

Imagine if you gathered all of the world’s hardcore golfers for a weeklong conference with the sole purpose of designing a resort made just for them. When all of the ideas had been spitballed and voted on and fretted over, the result would be a plan for a world class golf course with amazing views and a resort that offered everything we want and none of the stuff we don’t. Guess what. Bandon Dunes held that conference (or they just had some really smart people in charge).

We have all played tons of courses and stayed in golf resorts but nearly every one of them is not really designed for just hardcore golfers. Instead they end up giving us golf with a bunch of extra stuff we don’t care about and leave out the stuff we really want (but often are afraid to ask for). Examples you ask. How about adding a cigar bar, poker tables and fine whiskey and ditch the work desks in the room or fancy day spas. Add caddies that care, a short course for when you arrive late, a huge putting green, outside seating area, tons of sitting areas, restaurants that serve good food at reasonable prices and a staff that understands you have saved for this trip for a long time (and spent countless hours convincing your wife you just have to go). Given my recent 4 day trip with 7 dudes, I would tell you that Bandon Dunes has nailed the epic golf trip in every way.

I could write 10 pages on this trip but I am going to try and give you what is most important. How to get there, where to stay, what to expect and what you should not miss. My goal here is simple: give you tips for your upcoming trip or convince you that it is a golf trip you must plan.

Getting to Bandon Dunes:

Unless you go between May and September you are going to have to fly into Portland or Eugene, Oregon. Everyone will tell you that the drive to Portland is a 6 hour nightmare which is totally wrong. The trip was 4 hours 20 minutes and we broke it up in Eugene so it really is two small drives. The part from Portland to Eugene is boring highway but the jaunt from Eugene to Bandon is quite spectacular and if you play your cards right and get out of driver duty it is even better. We flew in the night before so we could get to the course by 2. If we pushed it we could have gotten there in time to play a full round but we decide to take our time. Remember this is Oregon and there is shopping to be done.

Clearly flying into Eugene is closer, but be warned there are not many flights in and out, and ours got moved 3 times which screwed up connections and our golf planning. In the end, we ended up switching to Portland. In fact, we booked a red eye on the way home so we could play one more round before we left. Given the distance we traveled it was absolutely worth it.

Shipping your clubs to Bandon Dunes:

This is the second time I have used ShipSticks on a golf trip and the second time I was very thankful not to have to lug them through the airport. Since we rented cars, getting 4 guys and 4 sets of clubs in an SUV was going to be a challenge. Our solution was ShipSticks. For roughly $64 each way, ShipSticks takes the worry and hassle out of golf travel. You can read my ShipSticks review from a few years back but the short story is – simply print your labels from home then stick them on your travel bag or large box and away they go.

Shipping the clubs back is even easier. After our final round we just threw our wet clothes and clubs in the box and left them at the front desk. The Bandon Dunes staff took care of the rest and 3 days later they showed up on my doorstep

Staying at Bandon Dunes

There are a number of options that are pretty well described on the Bandon website. We stayed at the Inn which has double rooms at a very reasonable price. Pro TIP: ask for room 101 which is much bigger than most and has a fireplace. At a minimum ask for a room with a view to #18 green. For us, saving money by doubling up in rooms was a no brainer but there are single rooms as well.

The rooms at the Inn are fairly simple but nice. Clearly they are made for dudes who will be tromping around in wet clothes and simply need a place to crash. For example, the carpets are a tight weave that is meant to withstand golf shoes and bags without getting torn up. The bathroom is large and has super hot water for reviving your core temperature. There is also a shoe / glove drier in every room which came in super handy. TIP: They also have a dry room where you can take your rain gear.

The other thing we loved about the Inn is the common area which has a bar that is open from 5-9. Most of the time it was just our group, making it super relaxing. Plus you can even order from the other restaurant and have it brought over, which we did while watching the Duke/Carolina hoops game.

Obviously, we only stayed at the Inn but I did ask a few staff members where was the best place to stay. They all agreed it was the Inn (in part because the Lodge is much louder and the villas are farther away). The reality is you won’t go wrong.

Speaking of the Lodge, that is the main structure that has a number of places to eat and drink. It is about a 4 minute walk from the Inn or you can take the shuttle which runs throughout the resort on a regular basis.

Golf at Bandon Dunes:

Oh Jesus. I have played my fair share of awesome golf courses but until you tee off with the raging Pacific Ocean to your side you will not understand the magnificence of Bandon Dunes. The two ocean courses are Pacific Dunes and Bandon Dunes. We played Pacific first in fairly decent weather. The night before there was a huge storm and waves were breaking at 15 feet. Of course we were a few hundred feet above the beach as well. Again, pictures and words will never do it justice. Somehow the Pacific Ocean is an entirely different beast than the Atlantic Ocean, and with towering cliffs it provides one of the most stunning views in all of golf.

Both of these tracks are simply mesmerizing and there are zero throw away holes. In addition, they do little things like tuck a halfway house in the side of a hill with the sole purpose of serving outstanding $6 bowls of chili (there is other food, but the chili rules).

Unfortunately, we played Bandon Dunes in a bit of a downpour. The first 7 holes were glorious (and very little rain). As we made the turn, I was ready to claim Bandon over Pacific but with the god awful weather on the backside I am just not in a position to do that. This brings up my next point.

What happens when the weather is bad?

No matter when you go to Bandon Dunes you run the risk of wind and rain. We went in late February and played 5 rounds in 4 days. We had one amazing day of sunshine, two of cold and medium rain and two in cold and hard rain. From what I have heard and read (and seen on the live Bandon Cam), February is a solid month to go to Bandon Dunes. The prices are significantly discounted and you have a good chance for decent weather. September is supposed to be the best but summer brings the wind which can be really strong. The good news is that even in the worst weather (and I think we had two of the worst back to back days in a long time), Bandon Dunes is glorious and more fun than any course I have played.

Obviously, sun and no wind was the best day but I can tell you with a straight face that not a single dude came off the 18th green without a smile and a story on any day. It’s crazy but the weather just does not ruin your adventure. I guess you need to embrace it a little but as a first timer you are so mesmerized by the scenery you forget about how hard it is raining.

My advice, keep score if you like but don’t go out there looking for record rounds. We played the green tees (which I think are most common). I am a 9 handicap and shoot low 80’s most rounds. I posted 93, 88, 86, 88, 86 and felt good about it. There are plenty of holes to par and we had about 2-3 birdies per round between the 8 of us. The problem is that there are also lots of doubles out there between the wind, rain, greens and just bad shots.

So, let’s rank the courses:

First off I think that the actual design of each course, i.e. greens and fairways is less important than the vibe you get. Each course has a distinct character and is like a puzzle piece in that when put them together creates a picture of golf lore. While each hole is cool unto itself, it’s never really the point – it’s like the whole arena you are playing in is what gets you stoked.

#1/2 Bandon Dunes/Pacific Dunes. We are splitting hairs on this one. There are more ocean views at Pacific Dunes but Bandon is probably more fun. It really does not matter because anyone who goes to Bandon will play both of these.

#3 Bandon Trails: We had glorious weather for this day but most caddies rank this course #2 behind Bandon. For us, it felt more like golf we are used to in terms of layout. The difference is the huge evergreen trees and monstrous feel. God, I loved everything about this course. DO NOT pass on playing it.

#4 Old Macdonald: Clearly the least impressive of the courses. This course is set more inland and can be described as a series of rolling mounds. HINT: this course is nearly impossible to play without a caddie. Without one you will likely get lost and end up on the wrong tee box. Depending on how long you are at Bandon Dunes, this would be the course to skip. I am told it is a great course for match play but the reality is there is limited time and the other 3 courses are just much better.

Should I get a caddie at Bandon Dunes?:

Initially we were not going to get caddies because none of us are high rollers. Fortunately we were convinced to get a forecaddie at Old Mac. As I mentioned we would have never been able to figure out where to hit the ball or where the next tee box was without the help of a caddie. Price wise it ended up a bargain. Forecaddies cost $120 for the group (that includes gratuity). We ended up tipping him more but for an extra $40 each it was totally worth it.

The next day a few of us got our own caddies because the weather was going to be rough. Again, the smartest move we could have made. Even though the pull carts are awesome, a caddie blows them away. Forget about lines and reads, being able to keep your hands in your pocket is pure joy. I know I can’t tell you how to spend your money but I felt like my $150 caddie fee was worth every penny and by the end of the trip you have a new friend.

Look, get a forecaddie at a minimum (just do it!). If you can almost afford it then get your own caddie (and get your cheap buddies to chip in since he will end up helping them too).

What to bring to Bandon Dunes:

Captain Obvious says bring your rain gear (and not the cheap stuff). When you play in a solid rain for 4 hours you’d better be prepared. I suggest testing your gear with a hose and for a long time. Playing in rain is not bad when you are dry but it sucks otherwise. In addition to rain gear, bring two pairs of good golf shoes, rain gloves and a hat.

Aside from the proper clothing I would also suggest stopping by the liquor store on your way in. Given that most people will play only one round of golf per day, you are gonna have time to kill. Despite the very reasonable drink prices and Bandon, we saved a ton of money by drinking our own booze during the day. Even better, no one cares. That’s my point, Bandon was designed for hardcore golfers who want to save a few bucks so they just let it slide when you wheel in 8 handles of brown liquor into your room.

Why is Bandon Dunes a must guys golf trip:

Remember, we come from the east coast so this is a big deal for us and we don’t get to see this type of scenery very often. Traveling 3,000 miles and spending $2K on 5 rounds of golf is no joke, so our expectations were pretty high.

The allure of Bandon is so hard to describe so perhaps some stories will help to illustrate it.

Oh the Weather:

We got to Bandon at about 2:30 which gave us just enough time to play the short course (13 holes). After gearing up we headed out to 35 mph winds and blowing hail. 1.5 hours later we came back with ear to ear grins. “Holy fuck that was insane” “Dude, that was the craziest golf I have ever played”. Again, weather just never ruins Bandon.

Bethany knows my name:

Our first dinner was at Pacific Grill which is one of the fancier venues. The restaurant is fairly small and was filled by about 60 dudes and one table of women. Food – off the chart. Halfway through the meal, (we had been drinking since noon), I realized our waitress had been calling me by name the entire night. I lean over to my buddy and tell him how special I am. Turns out, everyone was special that night as Bethany had quickly learned all of our names.

The next afternoon we ended up finishing our round and stopped into the Grill for a quick drink. Dazed and confused, it took us a moment to realize where we were. Fortunately, Bethany quickly recognized us and one lucky son of a gun even got a hug and a hot cup of water to warm his hands. Top notch, top notch.

Caddie kinship:

One our caddies name was Kurt and he had Steve’s bag for 4 rounds. Kind of an old salty dog, Kurt alway had a great read and quickly learned Steve’s bag. After one round Steve relayed a story from the day.

It was my first experience using a caddie and really enjoyed learning from my caddie Kurt over the course of 4 days. Lots of talk of golf of course, with interesting discussions on many other topics — including a multiple day discussion of our all-time baseball all-star teams. Kurt also facilitated my most memorable experience of the trip.

“On a par four, two of us pushed our drives substantially to the right — as we walked toward our balls Kurt summoned us over to a small grate that was located at the base of tree. Kurt removed the first grate to reveal another grate which when removed uncovered an ancient bottle of Scotch and a rustic leather guestbook — which we proceeded to sign. Just a really cool moment that sums up how visiting Bandon Dunes is unlike any other golf trip you will ever have.”

Not to be outdone, after we parted ways in Portland I got this text from Steve.

“I can’t seem to make any decisions without input from Kurt – I txt’d him from Denny’s this morning – you like the Grand Slam or the Denver omelette? Thankfully her txt’d back “go with the Omelette- but start with coffee first” #lifecaddie”

From my own perspective, on the morning of our final round I showed up at Bandon Trails to meet my Caddie, Todd, who had caddied for me the last two rounds. Todd was there early and greeted me with a smile and a handshake. I thanked him for lugging me around the prior day in the rain. He just smiled and said it was a pleasure. He then handed me a book on Bandon with a short hand written note inside. Thankfully, the protective plastic bag he had placed the book in was never needed as we enjoyed a day of glorious sun.

Parting shots:

A week has passed since our trip and hardly an hour goes by without my phone dinging with another text from one of my travel companions waxing poetic about our adventure. I am sure there are other epic golf trips to be had, but a Bandon Dunes golf trip is certainly high on the list.

Golfing at Bandon Dunes is like taking a trip back to another century (and I don’t mean the Twentieth)! My expectations heading into the trip was to play some links-style golf without having to “cross the pond.” Bandon delivered the kind of golf I was hoping to experience and much, much, more. We did get our links weather — we played in rain, wind, hail, and not be left out — a little bit of sunshine. As with other memories, the multiple layers of clothing — referred to as “stupid gear” by one of the starters — fades with time and you just remember the camaraderie associated with surviving the elements. Somehow I smile deeply remembering the exact moment when it started to hail (brought on I am sure by one of us saying something like ‘this rain is not very wet’ — to which we responded ‘yeah — because it is frozen!’